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OUR TOP DESTINATION FOR GEORGIA

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Introducing Uplistsikhe

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    Welcome to Uplistsikhe   

    This impressive and once enormous cave city (admission 10 GEL, guide in English 10 GEL; 9am-6pm), on the north bank of the Mtkvari, 10km east of Gori, is one of the oldest places of settlement in the Caucasus. Uplistsikhe was founded in the late Bronze Age, around 1000 BC, but developed mainly from the 6th century BC to the 1st century AD. This was one of the principal political and religious centres of pre-Christian Kartli, with temples dedicated principally to the sun goddess. Archaeological findings from the 4th to 6th centuries AD speak of an ongoing struggle between Christians and adherents of the old religion.

   After the Arabs occupied Tbilisi, Uplistsikhe became the residence of the kings of Kartli. A main caravan road from Asia to Europe ran just north of the city, which became an important trade centre with 20, 000 people at its peak. Uplistsikhe’s importance declined after King David the Builder retook Tbilisi in 1122 and it was irrevocably destroyed by the Mongols in 1240, along with its natural surroundings – there used to be forests here. What you visit today is the 40, 000-sq-metre Shida Kalaki, or Inner City, constituting less than half of the original whole. Almost everything here has been uncovered by archaeologists since 1957, when only the tops of a few caves were visible.

   Uplistsikhe is strategically located, with a deep valley to the east and cliffs to the west. Entering the main part of the site, you pass through what was the main gate, at the head of a small ravine, then wind your way up the main street. Over to the left, on the southwest edge of the site overlooking the river, you’ll see a cave with a pointed arch carved in the rock above it. Inside, the ceiling is carved with octagonal designs in a similar style to Caracalla’s Baths in Rome. Known as the Theatre, this is probably a temple dating from the 1st or 2nd century AD, where religious mystery plays may have been performed.

   Further up the street and down to its right is the large pre-Christian Temple of Makvliani, with an inner recess behind an arched portico. The open hall in front of the portico has stone seats for priests, and two rounded holes in the floor for the blood of sacrificial animals.

   A little further up on the left is the big hall known as Tamaris Darbazi (Hall of Queen Tamar). Here there are two columns built into the cliff and a stone seat dating from antiquity. The stone ceiling is cut to look like wooden beams, and there is a hole to let smoke out and light in. This was almost certainly a pagan temple originally, though the great Christian Queen Tamar may have occupied it later. To its left is an open area with stone niches along one side, thought to have once been a pharmacy. On the other side of Tamaris Darbazi is a large cave building with the remains of four columns – probably originally a sun temple, used for animal sacrifices, and later converted into a Christian basilica.

   The 10th-century church near the top of the hill is the Uplistsulis Eklesia (Prince’s Church). This triple-church basilica was also built over a pagan temple, probably the most important one.

   On your way back down, don’t miss the long tunnel running down to the Mtkvari River – an emergency escape route that could also have been used for carrying water up to the city. Its entrance is by a short flight of narrow metal steps, behind a reconstructed wall southeast of the Theatre.

Uplistsikhe, church, Uplistsulis Eklesia, Tamaris Darbazi, Hall of Queen Tamar, Christian Temple of Makvliani

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